Denise Goldberg's blog

Escaping home to peek at spring
Hiking in Zion National Park

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Photographer smiling

It's quite possible that my camera was totally out of control during my (too) quick visit to Zion National Park last week, but it's more likely that it was me!

Home Tuesday night - really Wednesday morning - my first task was to pull the photos off of the camera's memory cards. I started with 1090 pictures and spent several hours over the next two nights weeding them out, deleting shots that didn't scream out to be kept. That brought my total down to 850 photos. Hmmm... that's still way too many to share. It was time to pick and choose! After several long days, I managed to select 275 of those photos to share with the world.

The sheer volume of photos was caused by a couple of things. I was in a drop-dead gorgeous place, and I was walking with a camera in my hand. Dangerous, but infinitely enjoyable!

Photos can be seen in my Zion National Park - April 2007 galleries.
There are five galleries, four of which contain the full set of photos. The gallery Enticements for the eye, a map to my Zion adventures contains copies of 25 of the photos in the other four galleries; it is my attempt to provide a map to the photos.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Zion curiosities

Zion National Park... hiking, looking, red rocks, wildlife, a feast for the eyes, beauty...

Beyond the natural appeal, there were some man-made features that raised my curiosity - especially Walter's Wiggles, and the Zion-Mt. Carmel Road tunnel. I went looking for information, and found the answers on the Park Service's web site.

From the National Park Service (Zion website) frequently asked questions:
About Zion's hiking trails: Q. How did they get the concrete on the trails? A. The East and West Rim Trails were constructed by the NPS in the early 1920s. The trails were paved with gallons of oil (East Rim = 760 gal., West Rim = 1240 gal.) mixed with natural sand and rock chips available along the trail. The oil, tools, other materials and equipment were hauled onto the various sites by packhorse.

In 1985 extensive repair was done on the West Rim Trail from 4900 ft. through Refrigerator Canyon to the top of Angel's Landing. The concrete for this job was hauled in by maintenance and mules from the Grotto. Walters Wiggles was resurfaced with 88 cubic yards of concrete, and the concrete for this job was hauled onto the site by helicopter. This took 258 flights. WHEW!

About the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel Q. How long is the tunnel? A. 1.1-miles. It was completed in 1930 by the Nevada Construction Co. The project took 3-years to complete and cost $1,896,000.
Ah, answers! My curiosity is satisfied for now...


The entrance to the tunnel, looking down from high above the eastern end. I wish I could have walked through this tunnel to spend some time staring through the windows cut in the wall. No pedestrians (or bikes) allowed; it's just too narrow.




A view of Walter's Wiggles from the top, hikers waltzing down much more quickly than their upwards jaunt.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Photos: Court of the Patriarch's & back to the edge













A deer surprise

It was to be a short day for walking, even with the extra hour that jumped out of my back pocket. And yes, I did switch my watch to Pacific time this morning to avoid inadvertantly losing that hour! Walking, traveling...

A chilly morning greeted me, chill air topped by clear blue skies. Instead of eating breakfast in my room again, I piled on the layers and ate at my outside table with a view of tall red rocks enhancing my meal. Another good breakfast prepared my feet for walking. Today's feast was quiche, English muffins, blueberry muffins (that jumped into my daypack for a mid-day snack), and wonderful cantelope & strawberries. Happy traveler, happy stomach. As much as I am happy with cereal and fruit for my normal at-home breakfast, a B&B breakfast is a nice change in pace.

This turned out to be the perfect place for me to experience some warm temperatures. This morning's weather forecast called for 5 inches of snow at some of the ski areas close to Salt Lake City. That forecast made me very glad that I'm playing in a large state with very different weather patterns in the northern and southern regions; snow and high desert. What I am accustomed to as summer weather is probably a little cool for the folks here, but I like it.

My biggest puzzle of the day was figuring out where to walk. I didn't have time for the trails that really appealed to me, and the shorter trails that I hadn't already wandered on this trip didn't call out to me for some reason (not a rational reason, of course!). So - I hopped on the bus and jumped out at Court of the Patriarch's. The sun was hitting the tops of some of the peaks while the area along the river was still cast in shade. The contrasts were beautiful, and I decided to just walk back from there. Sunshine, shadows, more sunshine... Walking along the empty road, wandering down by the river, listening, looking...

In case you're wondering why I thought the road was a reasonable place to walk, it was empty except for the park shuttle buses. Zion has a wonderful restriction - no cars are allowed in Zion Canyon between the beginning of April and the end of October. Visitors who are staying at the lodge inside the park are given a pass to drive to the lodge and back to the park exit, but are not allowed to wander in their vehicles. The Zion Canyon Shuttle System provides access. No cars!
I jumped onto Pa'rus trail at Canyon Junction and followed that back to the visitor center. By some dumb luck I took a quick side trip to the museum - bathroom break, wouldn't you know? As I walked down the narrow trail leading to the museum, I startled a deer, and the deer startled me. It was so quiet, and all of a sudden I heard a thrashing sound. I looked forward to see a beautiful deer bounding across the trail. I stood still, and so did the deer. We had a bit of a staring contest and then she moved on. I looked to the right, trying to see where she had come from, and found two more deer across a small stream. They were quite happy to stand and watch for a few minutes too.



The end of my walk meant the end of my visit to Zion. I'm sure I'll be back again, I just don't know when. I wonder if I'll ever find a place that I like where I am willing to live with only a single visit. Somehow I don't think so.
A sample of today's photos are on the next page, but yes, there are more photos from my wanderings this morning. You can see them at A last morning's walk, Court of the Patriarch's & south.

Interlude ending

...heading home

Traveling, driving... heading out of the park, red rocks still evident. Speeding through Utah, and then the northwest corner of Arizona, beautiful scenery. The rocks tilted up, red, high above my head, road winding down. I had all I could do to stop myself from pulling over to the side of the road and leaping out of the car with my camera. No, Denise, that would be very bad behavior. After all, this is an interstate highway, and even though the speed limit has dropped to 55 from the 75 miles per hour norm - because of the curves and these beautiful hills - that doesn't mean it's ok to stop. (And you're right, I didn't stop!) Almost as soon as I entered Nevada, the interested terrain stopped; the land flattened, desert, scrub, rolling terrain.
Flying... Somewhere just east of the Rockies. I looked out of the window to the north to see what appeared to be a small plane in the distance, heading to the west. Distance does funny things to perspective though; I'm sure that what I saw was a reasonable sized jet and not a small plane. It was an interesting vision, and one that was repeated again a little bit later.

Flying east into a darkening sky... changing time in the direction that I find difficult... For some reason I have very little problem adjusting to the time change heading from east to west, but when I return to the east my body typically rebels. My flight lands tonight at 11:45. Getting up for work in the morning will be interesting.

My weekend escape over, it's time to turn my imagination to the puzzle of where my bicycle and I will travel later this year. I wonder how long it will take to decide. (And yes, that is a good problem to have!)

Monday, April 9, 2007

Photos: Springdale















Food, fabulous food

Let's see, do I travel to visit beautiful places, to play with my camera, to hike (or ride) - or do I travel to eat? It's really a combination of all of those things, and it's a treat when my search for beautiful places takes me to someplace where food can be fun too. Springdale, Utah is doing a good job of keeping my stomach happy.

I found dinner last night by following a sign pointing off of the main street through town. Oscar's Cafe specializes in Mexican (or variations of Mexican) cuisine. My feast of the evening was the roasted green pepper and black bean burrito. Yum! That was a great meal for replacing all of those calories I burned tromping around the park.

It's hard to believe that I was ready for more food by the time the sun appeared this morning - and yes, I was ready for food! Breakfast at the Red Rock Inn is delivered to your room at the time you request (as long as that time is between 8 and 9:30 AM. Promptly at 8 AM, my breakfast basket arrived. There is a table ^AMPamp; chairs just outside of the room, but it was cold enough that I decided to make use of the table and chairs inside of the room. I was ready to eat, but even if I hadn't been hungry I think I would have been tempted by my meal. What was in my basket? Fresh strawberries with chunks of banana, eggs wrapped in a soft tortilla accompanied by black beans and a homemade salsa, orange juice, coffee, yogurt, and a basket of muffins. And yes, that was way more food than I needed for breakfast. I tucked the yogurt into the little fridge in my room for an apres hike snack, and the extra muffins jumped into my daypack to serve as a nice midday treat.

Tonight I wandered over to Zion Pizza & Noodle Company for dinner. Vegetarian lasagne served on a pool of tomato sauce was a good end-of-day meal. Happy stomach, time for a little rest and relaxation before tomorrow's wanderings...

Food, fabulous food!
Some photos from my before and after-dinner wanderings in Springdale can be seen in my photo gallery On the edge of the park.

Photos: Near the edge of the park







Photos: Weeping Rock









Photos: Angel's Landing... and down again















Photos: a small piece of West Rim Trail















Photos: Angel's Landing, heading up





















Chasing lizards... skittering

Lizards? Absolutely! The silly creatures were scurrying around, running under rocks, hiding. But then they apparently decided to spend some time posing for me!

The sun here warms the days into a "warm for this time of year temperature". Yesterday's warmth supported hiking in shorts and a sleeveless shirt, but as soon as the sun dipped below the red rocks the warmth ran off. This morning was chilly enough that I started out wearing 2 light shirts topped by a windbreaker. And yes, I was still wearing shorts because I expected the sun to warm the day once again. That was a good guess; within an hour I was once again hiking in shorts and a sleeveless shirt. Those light layers were the magic I needed this morning.

Yesterday was my getting started day with a combination of relatively short hikes. Today was a different story; it was my day to hike (almost) to Angel's Landing, continuing out along the West Rim Trail. The Angel's Landing hike is a beauty, even though I have never managed to get myself to cross the narrow ridge leading to the end of the hike. Somehow exposure to sheer drops and I just don't get along. The West Rim Trail heads even higher, but without the knife edge. That trail is the real prize since most of the people turn around after conquering Angel's Landing; I shared the trail with occasional hikers, but most of the time I could enjoy the quiet magic of hiking alone.



It was along the West Rim Trail where the lizards stopped hiding. Earlier in the day they would scamper across the trail, running from rock to rock, hiding. But then they must have decided that I wasn't a danger to them. I crouched down, focusing my camera on the lizard of the moment. Sometimes he (she?) would turn his head, run a little further, strike another pose. They do an amazing job of blending in with the rocks.



As I was walking down Walter's Wiggles on the Angel's Landing trail, a chipmunk decided to come out and play. I crouched down once more, exchanging glances with the little creature. He posed for my camera, moved a little further, posed again. The thing I found really funny is that other hikers just kept walking by, paying no attention at all to my chipmunk friend. The chipmunk ran off to the side of the trail, hiding under a convenient rock until the other humans were gone. I was still crouching in the middle of the trail, and my friend the chipmunk came out to pose once again.

I entered the park this morning at 8:45. My walking and camera play kept me there until 4:45, a very good day. To be honest I think my camera is a little out of control. Oh, you're right, it's probably the human behind the camera who is out of control - me! I've already managed to fill a 2 gigabyte CompactFlash card. Luckily I travel with extras. Here's hoping that I've managed to capture some good photos..

Oh, and I found an extra hour, so I'm going to hike here tomorrow morning before I head back to the airport. Where did it come from? I'm playing in Utah, which is in Mountain Time, but my plane leaves from Nevada. Luckily I remembered today that the hour time difference means I can have another hour to play in the park. My plan is to change my watch to Pacific Time in the morning so I can not forget what time I really need to leave here. Yes, I should be able to remember, but I know from experience that remembering that the time on my watch and the time of my flight time is an hour different doesn't work for me!

One more day in this beautiful place...
A sample of my photos from today can be found on the next few pages. If you are interested in wandering through even more photos from today you can find them in my gallery Up & up... Angels Landing & West Rim Trail.